Kolkata
If you are visiting Kolkata for the first time, you are probably coming by train, as I did, and arriving at Howrah station. The sight that greets you is a teeming multitude, reminiscent of a Mrinal Sen film, and it overwhelms you.
Now you encounter the serpentine queue for the taxi, and the argumentative Indian venting forth in vociferous Bengali. Daunted by the sight of the immobile traffic you remember the unsolicited advice of your garrulous co passengers on the train, and follow the signs and the bustling junta to the Ghats, to take the ferry across to the city proper. The bracing breeze and wide expanse of water revives you and you are ready to face the city of many epithets; Kipling’s ‘City of Dreadful nights, RGs Dying City, Grass’s Show your Tongue, or La’pieres’s City of Joy’.
The initial confusion with the cacophony of the crowds, the exasperating traffic, and the congested bewildering urban sprawl slowly gives way to its seductive charms.
The ‘Bhadralok’ gentry, soft spoken and mild mannered as long as you did not oppose their favourite football team, be it Brazil or Mohan Bagan, or political party, or dada as in Sourav, is a most helpful if rather voluble species, and will make you an honorary Calcatian. Of course, if you have learnt a few words of Bangla, and profess a liking for Bengali food, sweets and Rabindrasangeet, the city is yours.
The theatre scene is fabulous, and tickets for class acts are dirt-cheap. Ditto the music scene, whether Bangla or Hindustani classical. The street food is cheaper than anything other than the MPs canteen in the parliament, and it beats anything available anywhere in the country. Only Bangkok can compare in the variety and taste.
The office goer’s pubs in Dharmatolla are budget and people friendly, and shared tables leads to bonding with all and sundry. There are peculiar treats to be had, like the Chinese breakfast bazaar at Dalhousie, exotic oriental cuisine in china town, Burmese dhabas, Armenian churches, Buddhist pagodas and Jewish Synagogues popping up in the most unexpected places. The crumbling imperial buildings of Dalhousie are architectural landmarks in sad disrepair, and the pseudo Gothic married to opulent oriental palaces in North Kolkata seem funny, heroic and tragic at the same time.
If cities could be compared to women, this is the impression I gather.
Kolkata is the ageing courtesan, captivating in her youth, now sadly past, trying halfheartedly to hold on to her old glory, not quite succeeding , but barely concealing her heart of gold behind a faux haughty facade. And you are madly in love with her
This is why, Bengali or not, anyone who has lived in Kolkata for a while, becomes an honorary Kolkatan, and you can take him out of Kolkata, but cannot exorcise the Kolkata out of him
Fascinating
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thank you Daniel. been there?
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No, never, I’ve been to Delhi and Bangalore though
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Try it. I’ve lived mostly in Delhi but Kolkatas my hometown. Will write about Delhi next then my current home Mumbai
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Splendid post! Quite surprising that you could gauge so much about the city without visiting the place.Dropping by from UBC.
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Thank you Veneeta My schooldays were in Kolkata. Worked there in 2000. My homes still there. Visitors eye was just a style.
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And roshogullas, sandes and ras kadams! A city which tests the resolve of diabetics to refrain from gorging on the delectable sweets on offer.
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And roshogullas, sandes and ras kadams! A city which tests the resolve of diabetics to refrain from gorging on the delectable sweets on offer.
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Yes Ashok. Misty & Gelusyl.
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I am fascinated by and love big cities..they have a soul. Perfectly captured emotions as you take us for a free trip in Kolkata..make me wanna be there:) I shall visit some day, pop Rosha Gulla, travel by tram, fall in love and travel by the Yellow Cabs:)
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Thank you Vishal. You must. Inshallah.
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🙂
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‘Aging courtesan’. What a terrific epithet. 🙂
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Thank you :). Agree?
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I love your comparison of Kolkata to a woman.
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Thank you 🙂 . I have one on every big city of India. Try Cities I’ve lived in & loved
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“Kolkata is the ageing courtesan, captivating in her youth, now sadly past, trying halfheartedly to hold on to her old glory” Very well said. I found Kolkatta fascinating and repulsive at the same time. The cultural scene rocks though and I loved the yummy food !
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Thanx Ruch. My sentiments exactly
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An indepth and stark analysis of the city and citizen which i liked very much.
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thank you sir. stark was fortunate and not intended 🙂
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A city with a heart….delightful.
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hometown bias 🙂
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Wonderful article Soumya sir. You nailed it as about losing charm but struggling to hold and when you said you can be out of Calcutta but not Calcutta out of you. Well summed up too
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Thanks kind sir or mam
Currently in the maximum city
Remembering the city of joy
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Makes me want to visit Kolkata, and the “ageing courtesan” analogy confirms my views that there are male and female cities – and that female ones are much more welcoming and interesting. Well done once more, Soumya!
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Thanks kind sir or mam
Welcome to the dying city
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Kya baat hai Sir ji… Neelesh here
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Thanks 😊 nilesh
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Beautifully penned,loved every bit of it.
Kolkata “the dying courtesan”, couldn’t agree more.
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Thank you 😊
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